INSTALLING THE KIT ON YOUR BICYCLE
(after the engine has been mounted to the channel)
STEP 1 - Attach the "U" shaped frame bracket and backer plate to your bikes frame above the rear brakes using the 2" bolts with lock washers and nuts as shown if Figure 1 (3 nuts & bolts total). Try and keep it centered as best as possible. The frame bracket should be wide enough without interfering with the brakes or brake cables. If there is any interference with the cables the U-bracket can be moved slightly up or down or to either side to find the best position. Make sure the bracket is level to the frame (Fig 1A) and is tight, but DO NOT over tighten the bolts or you may bend your frame. Check to make sure it is still positioned correctly after your first few test rides.
STEP 2 - Insert the 3/8" x 6" hex bolt through the right side of the bracket. Only insert hex bolt about an inch through the hole for now. Now place one shaft collar on the tip of the hex bolt as show in Figure 2. Keep the set screws on the shaft collar loose at this point.
STEP 3 - Grab the engine and drive housing assembly securely. Position it on top of the tire and line up the housing hole with the tip of the hex bolt. Slide the hex bolt all the way through the 2 housing holes. Now place the other shaft collar on the tip of the hex bolt and continue sliding the bolt through the bracket hole. Place the 3/8" stop nut on the hex bolt and tighten. Only tighten the stop nut so it is even with the tip of the hex bolt, do not over tighten, you may bend the bracket too much. Since the set screws on the shaft collars are loose at this point you should be able to freely move the unit from side to side along the hex bolt. Position the unit so the center the drive roller is over the center of the tire. Now press the shaft collars on both sides against the housing and tighten the set screws (Figure 3). At this point you should be able to pivot the assembly up and down above the wheel freely, but it should not move from side to side.
STEP 4 - You are now ready to attach the quick release assembly and slotted rear support bars to the engine channel. Be sure to insert hardware in the correct order, exactly as it is shown in Figure 4, do not forget to use the 1/2" outside spacers. The inner center spacer should already be inserted between the engine channel upon arrival of your kit. You will need to remove the twist tie that is holding it in place. BE SURE THIS CENTER SUPPORT SPACER IS ALWAYS IN PLACE, DO NOT RIDE WITHOUT IT INSTALLED. The center spacer is positioned between a set of parallel holes that is used to mount the support bars and quick release assembly. Starting from the right side, insert the quick release rod through the slotted support bar, then a ½” spacer, and then through the engine channel and center spacer. When the rod is the entire way through, slide through your other ½” spacer and support bar. You can now screw on the end nut all the way until it is just fairly loose. Keep loose at this point.
STEP 5 - You are now ready to attach the support rods to the bottom of the frame on each side. Most bikes have two sets of threaded mounting holes on the frame near the rear axle (Figure 5). These holes are usually intended for bike racks or accessories. You can use either the top or bottom hole, whichever one works best with your setup. Since not all bikes have the same thread we have included a 5mm and 6mm set of screws with lock washers. Before fastening the support rods make sure the quick release lever is loose for installation purposes. After fastening the support rods to the frame on both sides make sure the screws are not interfering with the wheel or chain. If so you may need to place the head of the screws on the inside of the frame or add some washers to shorten the screw. You can now readjust the quick release lever so it is very tight when clamped and loose enough to freely slide up and down the slotted support rods when released. At this point you are almost finished and should look similar to the picture in Figure 6.
STEP 6 - You should now be able to test the position of support rods. When the assembly is locked all the way in the up position the drive roller should be between 1/4" and 1" off the tire as shown in Figure 7. When the drive roller is locked in the down position it should be depressed on the tire between 1/8" and 1/4" as shown in Figure 8. Make sure your tire is always inflated to its proper pressure. Apply only enough pressure to the tire so the drive roller DOES NOT SLIP when given full throttle. If the drive roller slips adjust more pressure and test again. If you do not have enough pressure the drive roller will slip and wear the tire, if you have too much pressure, the engine will not perform very well.
STEP 7 - Install the throttle and kill switch on your handlebars. Make sure all wire and cables are secured to your bike with the included nylon zip ties. Be sure and turn the wheel full left and full right to make sure the cables do not restrain your steering, if so re-adjust properly.
Figure 1
Figure 1A
Figure 1A
Figure 2
Figure 3
Figure 5
Figure 7
Figure 6
INSTALLATION PROCEDURES
INSTALLING THE ENGINE
The engine is secured to the engine channel with 4 bolts (6m x 1 x 35) and lock washers, along with a 7/8" length spacer for each bolt. You will need a 10mm socket or adjustable wrench to fasten the bolts.
Slide the 4 bolts with lock washers through the 4 holes in the engine channel from the inside of the channel as shown above. Be sure to use a lock washer for each bolt – the lock washers will be on the inside of the channel. Now place a spacer over each of the bolts on the outside of the channel. Align the 4 bolts with the 4 engine holes and start to screw in by hand.
Now gently lay the engine on its side (the pull start side) and finish tightening the bolts with a 10mm wrench using a cross pattern to ensure even alignment (the same method you would use to tighten a car tire). Make sure the bolts are very snug. Make sure you use the provided spacers, bolts, and washers that come with the kit. If the bolts are too long they will screw into the engine too far and they may interfere with the flywheel on some engines. Rotate the shaft to make sure everything is rotating freely. As should be standard practice whenever disassembling and reassembling your kit, start the engine and test with the drive roller off the tire before riding. Inspect your kit to make sure all 4 engine bolts are tight before and after riding.
Figure 8
Figure 4
The photo above shows the Honda GX35 without the cable adjuster.
The photo above shows the Honda GX35 with the cable adjuster installed.
The photo above shows the Honda GX35 with the cable installed and in the idle position.
The photo above shows the Honda GX35 with the cable installed and in the full throttle position.
The photo above shows a more common style carburetor in which the cable adjuster is screwed into a bracket on or near the carb.
The photo above shows the nipple end of the cable, as well as a cable adjuster that is common on most compatible engines. Some engines may or may not come with this adjuster.
The photo above shows the barrel end of the cable, as well as the trigger/lever style throttle that can be mounted in various positions on your handlebar or grip.
INSTALLING THE THROTTLE CABLE
TO THE ENGINE AND HANDLEBAR
Your throttle cable contains a barrel end and a nipple end. The throttle cable is attached to your engine's carburetor with the nipple end, and to the throttle with the barrel end.
The photo above shows the throttle attached to the handlebar using a hose clamp. It can also be attached using 2 nylon zip ties that are good quality and are very tight.
The photo above shows the throttle attached directly to the hand grip using 2 nylon zip ties. Make sure the ties are very tight and the throttle is secure.
